Instrument for drafting garment-patterns.



PATENTED MAY 19,1903. G. A ENTI E. INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GARMENTPATTERNS.

APPLIOATION FILED DEG. 6. 190a.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GUSTAF V. VALENTINE, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GARMENT-PATTERNS.

Application filed December 6, 1906.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GUSTAF V. VALEN- TINE, citizen of the United States,residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Instruments for DraftingGarment-Patterns; and I do hereby de clare the following to be a full,clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enableothers skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use thesame.

My invention relates to a novel construction in an instrument adaptedfor use in drafting patterns for ladies garments, the object being toprovide an instrument by means of which patterns may be drafted withoutthe aid of mathematical calculations on the part of the operator andwhich is easily comprehended and applied, and consists in'the featuresof construction hereinafter fully described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating my invention: Figures 1 and 2are views in elevation of opposite sides respectively of an instrumentconstructed in accordance with my invention, certain graduated scalesand printed matter appearing thereon being omitted from illustration asforming no part of my present invention, said instrument being shown inpositions on fragmentary drafts of the rear and front of a body garmentrespectively.

My present invention relates to an improvement upon the device formingsubject of Letters Patent No. 708506, granted to me Sept. 2, 1902, andthe improvement relates specifically to the means provided foraccurately drafting the shoulder portion of a garment. As the saidimprovement affects only that portion of the patented instrumentrelating to the location on the draft of the points necessary toaccurately draw the shoulder seam lines, I omit from illustration anddescription all matter not directly nec essary to a full comprehensionof my present improvement. My said instrument is necessarily dependentupon a definite system of taking the measurements of the person to befitted and to properly apply this instrument it is necessary thatmeasurement be taken from the intersection of the neck-seam with themiddle back seam (or corresponding point) to that point in the shoulderwhich happens to determine the then fashionable width .thereof in thegarment. This measure- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 19, 1908. 7

Serial No. 346,596.

ment is accordingly taken either beyond or inwardly of the point of theshoulder.

The instrument A is provided with a straight edge which on each side ofthe instrument is to form the graduated scale B the main divisions ofwhich are disposed at intervals of a half inch each and successivelynumbered from 1 to 36 beginning at the larger curved end of theinstrument.

Dis osed at right angles to said graduated sca e B and intersecting thelatter at its starting point is a graduated scale C, the latter alsoappearing on both sides of the instrument.

A curved line D (Fig. 1) appears on one side of the instrument extendingfrom a given point on the scale C to a given point on the scale Jhereinafter described, said line indicating approximately the neck-lineof the back of the body-garment such as a waist or the like. At theintersection of the said line D with the scale C, is a perforation Eindicating the juncture of the neck and middle back seams, the saidscale C being the equiva lent on the instrument of the middle back seamand constituting the main line from which all measurements are taken.

On the body of the instrument on opposite sides thereof are twograduated scales F and G, the graduations of which consist of a seriesof perforations H and H respectively. The former of said scales has itsgraduations numbered in accordance with their respective distances fromthe perforation E, the said numbers of said graduations representing thedistance in inches from the intersection of the neck and middle backseams to the shoulder point. The other graduated scale G has itsgraduations numbered in accordance with. their respective distances froma point on the straight edge determined by the neck measurement of theperson to be fitted, (said point being located somewhere in the smallgraduated scale I on the straight edge) and the numbers thereof alsorepresenting the measurement in inches from the intersection of the neckand middle back seams to the shoulder point.

It will be noted that adjacent the larger end of the instrument thereappears a curved line D intersecting the scales B and C and anadditional graduated scale H, (Fig. 2) adjacent the scale C,

'The scales I and H are used in drafting the neck and shoulder seamlines of the front of the garment, the scale I being used to de terminethe point of intersection of the neck and shoulder seams and theposition of the shoulder seam being determined by drawing a line fromthe last-named point to that point in the scale G corresponding in itsordinal with the number of inches representing the distance between theshoulder point and the intersection of the neck and middle back seams.The said scales H and I are also so positioned as to determine theproper an gle of inclination of the shoulder seam line on the draft,such positions of said scales having been fixed by careful calculationand experiment as have also the graduations thereof.

My said instrument is applied as follows: Primarily base line 1 (Fig. 1)is drawn on'the pattern sheet or draft and the instrument then laidthereon so that the line of graduated scale C registers therewith andbase line 2" then drawn by causing the pencil to follow the straightedge of the instrument to the point in the scale B conforming to themeasurement in inches of the bust of the person to be fitted. The pointof the pencil is then inserted through the perforation E and thenthrough the perforation in the scale F numbered to correspond with thenumber of inches representing the distance from the point of theshoulder to the intersection of the neck and middle-back seams.

On the straight edge of the instrument is a small graduated scale J(Fig. 1) termed neck size, the graduations of which are rela tivelyclosely spaced and numbered consecutively, the said numbers representingin inches the neck circumference. On this scale on the base line 2 apoint is marked opposite the graduation corresponding to the neckcircumference. The instrument is then removed and a curved line drawnconnecting the last-named point with the point fixed by passing thepencil point through the perforation in the scale. F, said line beingindicated by the line K on the instrument. A curved line is then drawnfrom the previously determined point on base line 2 to the pointdetermined by passing the pencil through the perforation E correspondingsubstantially to the line D on the instrument. The shoulder and neckseam lines for the back of the garment are thus fixed. The instrument isnow inverted, the straight edge thereof being disposed flush with baseline 2 and the scale C registering with the end of said base line. Theneck circumfer ence is then marked on base line 2, scale I, and thepencil-point passed through the perforation in scale G correspondingnumerica ally with the measurement in inches of the distance fromintersection of middle back and neck seams. The instrument is thenremoved and a curved line corresponding to the line L appearing on'theinstrument is then drawn. Onv the draft base. line 3 is drawn parallelwith base line 1 and joining base line 2 at its end. cates the middlefront of the garment. When the draft has been completed in all details,it will be found that the curved lines K and L will correspond in lengthand their respective positions as to inclination with relation to baselines 1, 2 and 3 will be such that when the drafts of the back and frontof the garment are opposed the shoulder seams will register.

I claim as my invention:

1. An instrument of the kind specified having a straight edge and havinprinted thereon a line perpendicular to said edge and representing themiddle back seam and middle front of the garment, graduated scales onopposite sides of said instrument in the body portion thereof inclinedto. said straight edge and said perpendicular line and in which theouter end of the shoulder seam is fixed on the draft, one of saidlast-named scales having its beginning at a given point in saidperpendicular line, a graduated scale on said straight edge adjacent oneend thereof for determining the point of intersection of the neck andshoulder seams of the front of the garment, one of said graduated scalesfor fixing the point of termination of the shoulder seam on the drafthaving its beginning at the point in the last-named graduated scalecorresponding numerically in inches with the neck-size of the person tobe fitted, the graduations of said shoulder seam scales being numberedconsecutively to correspond with the measurement in inches of thedistance between the point of the shoulder and the point on the bodycorresponding to the intersection of the point of neck and middle backseams of the person to be fitted.

2. An instrument of the kind specified having a straight edge and havingprinted thereon a line disposed perpendicular to said straight edge,said last-named line representing the middle line of the back of thewearer and constituting the main base from which measurements are takenand fixed on the draft, graduated neck-size scales disposed on thestraight edge and starting at said perpendicular line, one of saidneck-size scales beginning at a given point in said line representingthe upper end of the middle back seam of the body garment, an inclinedgraduated scale in the body of the instrument having its beginning atthe last-named point in said perpendicular line and having itsgraduations consecutively numbered to correspond with measurements ininches from the corresponding point on the body to the point of theshoulder and serving to fix the point of termination of the outer end ofthe shoulder seam on the draft of the back of the body garment the pointof intersection of said shoulder seam with the neck-seam being Base line3 indistraight fixed on said last-named neck size scale, and theshoulder seam line being fixed on the draft by a line connecting saidpoints, a

second inclined graduated scale on the body of the garment on Which thetermination of the shoulder seam is determined in connection With atraveling point in the other necksize scale determined b the measurementin inches of the neck of t e person to be fitted 10 and serving to fixon the draft the shoulder substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name in presence of twosubscribing Witnesses.

seam line of the front of the body garment,

GUSTAF V. VALENTINE.

RUDOLPH WM. LoTz,

